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AHA Peeling - Heitland Cosmetics - Stamford, CT
Alpha Hydroxy Acid, The Amazing Active Substance 

AH or fruit Acids are active vegetable substances. They come as
Malic Acid in Apples and Pears, Glycolic Acid in sugar cane, Lactic
Acid in sour milk, Citric Acids in citrus fruits and Pyruvic Acid in grapes. 
Glycolic Acid, with only two carbon atoms, has a smaller size and is
considered to be the most effective of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, because
it is most able to penetrate the skin.
   

AH Acids have a direct effect on the epidermis, particularly
in the deep area of the Stratum Corneum.  They lead to a reduction
in skin damage that is connected with a thickened Stratum Corneum. 
Experiments have also proven that there is a far-reaching effect on
the Basal Layer.  The Basal Layer is stimulated to form more new cells,
a desirable regenerative effect for the process of cellular
communication activated by the AHA's. Highly concentrated
AHA Products probably have a wider reaching effect:  they
appear to promote the body’s own production of Collagen and
Elastín, helping wrinkles and lines of the surface of the skin to
disappear, although this process has not been scientifically
explained yet. 

The Significance Of The Stratum Corneum
For The Texture Of The Skin 

The Stratum Corneum it is the top layer of the skin and forms
a protective barrier to the environment.  In young and healthy
skin, the layer is very thin, elastic and with a wavy structure; as
a result of this wave structure, the light received by the skin is
reflected in a very special form producing a pearly shine,
making the young skin so attractive. With age and particularly
as a result of exposition to the sun, the Stratum Corneum increases
its thickness and impermeability.
   

A certain thickness is perfectly desirable as a so-called
“Light Barrier". It forms the skin’s own natural UV protection
and diminishes as a result of less solar exposure. The Stratum
Corneum loses its wavy structure with age and excessive
solar radiation.  At the same time, the individual corneal
cells become thoroughly swollen and the natural shedding
of the dead, outermost cells slows down.  As a result, the
Stratum Corneum cannot fulfil its blocking function
appropriately and the skin becomes dry and rough.  The
loss of the wavy structure alters the light reflection and
results in a pale and tired appearance of the skin.
 

The Effect Of The AH Acids

The individual cells of the Stratum Corneum are linked
together by a creamy substance.  This substance is dissolved
by the AH Acids.  The cells are laid free and can be changed;
the Stratum Corneum gradually becomes thinner and more
elastic. Wrinkles and chaps rapidly disappear. The Stratum
Corneum thus can improve its protective function; the skin
retains moisture and shows fewer wrinkles and lines.   

The effect of the AH Acid is not only restricted to the Stratum
Corneum, the “how” has not yet been explained, but it is
viewed as certain that the AH Acids trigger an information
mechanism between the various skin layers which stimulate
the basal layer, the Deeper Stratum of the epidermis, for further
activity in the division of cells.  This makes the epidermis stronger
with the result of greater capacity of retention of humidity and it
contributes to a smoother and softer skin. 

A probable hypothesis is that the AH Acids can even
promote the production characteristics of collagen in the
body; this would mean an indirect effect on the corium
or cutis and this way a reduction of existent wrinkles. 
This effect would have first to be scientifically proven.
The AH Acids are chemically closely related to Ascorbic
Acid for which such an effect has already be proven. 
For this reason, there is a very good possibility that this is
also true for the AH Acid.  (Information Acids, alpha -
Hydroxy use forms in the clinical practice for E.J Scoff and
R: J:Yu Go, University of Philadelphia, 1989).
 

The Effect Of The AH Acids On Wrinkles 

A short time ago independent scientist presented studies
about the external application of AH Acids at a high concentration
percentage, which again provide impressive proof of the efficacy
of these acids.  Professor E.J Goes Scott of Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania, writes about his one-year research in 27
female test persons: 

Review of sequential pictures, (for acne treatment trials) revealed
a gradual reduction of both keratosis and wrinkles of fine and
moderate calibre on the sides of the face and temporal areas.
Because of this observation, a group of patients was entered into
a prospective exploratory trial in which they twice daily applied
creams containing from 5 to 10 percent of Glycolic Acid Solution
applied to the face and rinsed off with water after 2 or 4 minutes:  
With the time an erythema not very strong appeared that usually
persisted for one or more hours. 

The time of exposure was gauged to avoid significant discomfort,
except the sensation of a mild tingling or burning. Some minimal
and fine scaling was reported by some patients to have occurred
afterwards.  All the patients were asked to avoid sun exposure,
and to use a sunscreen with a sun protection factor greater than
15 if it was impossible not to be exposed to the sun.  Pictures
of each side of the face and temporal areas were taken in the f
acilities of the treatment and repeated with an interval of one to
three months under conditions of standardized picture. Review
of photographs revealed a significant reduction in wrinkles of
the temporal and/or cheek area on at least one side in twenty-
one (21) cases.  The degree of reduction was mild to moderate
in nine cases and substantial in twelve.

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